Title: Oscar of the Waldorf
(This image is of the reprint edition; it may be a copy of a paper dust jacket that my book no longer has, but it's not the first edition, which is what I have for sale in real life.)
Author: Karl Schriftgiesser / Oscar Tschirky
Date: 1943
Publisher: Dutton
ISBN: none
Length: 238 pages
Illustrations: several black-and-white glossy plates
Quote: “Being a hotel man has been more than my job. It has
been my profession...my life.”
Who was Karl Schriftgiesser? Why is this biography of Oscar
Tschirky, copyright by Oscar Tschirky, written in the third person “by Karl
Schriftgiesser”? Was Oscar of the Waldorf vain enough to invent a biographer in
hopes of sounding more modest...or was he prudent enough to hire an assistant
whose native language was English in order to produce a well-written book in
English? It hardly matters now, because this is not the story of Oscar,
personally. It's the story of his hotel.
Oscar and the Waldorf Hotel flourished in the “Gilded Age”
between 1890 and 1930, a time when Marxism flourished as a reaction to the
extravagance of the obscenely rich. Money did, of course, trickle down in its
slow inefficient way. “Wealthy Willy” Waldorf Astor built his luxury hotel on
the site of his father's home, in the hope that his own name would displace his
father's name from history, with a mission of making himself famous by
operating the most extravagant luxury hotel the world had ever seen. He
succeeded, possibly because he hired a sturdy Swiss immigrant away from
Delmonico's and basically put that immigrant, Oscar, in charge of stocking
the hotel with the people William Waldorf Astor wanted for friends. Oscar and a
full crew of cooks, waiters, cleaners, messengers, even live elevator
operators, profited from Astor's dissipation of his inheritance. If they didn't
become rich in the sense that Astor was rich, Oscar, at least, had no worries
about retirement.
Oscar didn't chatter at the customers, he tells us. He was
not the head chef, but the head waiter, or as they say in Europe the maitre
d'hotel. Over the years, because he gave good service and wasn't chatty or
gossipy, he did come to seem like a friend to some of the hotel's patrons.
Sometimes he heard things. Once, he says, once in his lifetime, he was able to
tell some of them something important enough to make him break his rule and
speak before he was spoken to. Oscar had his small part in the design of the
Panama Canal.
Celebrity gossip is of course the main attraction of his
memoir. Most of it is bland, amusing, newspaper-style gossip. John “Bet-a-million”
Gates, an early patron, wagered a hundred dollars that one raindrop would reach
the bottom of a window ahead of another one (he won). Lillian Russell couldn't
make up her mind whether she wanted cantaloupe or ice cream for dessert; Oscar
gave her half a cantaloupe with ice cream in the center and named this dessert
“cantaloupe a la Lillian Russell.” Horace Fletcher, an eccentric medical
researcher who believed in eating very plain food very slowly, frustrated Oscar
by ordering bread and water for lunch. When a Barnum & Bailey employee
turned eighty, still on the job, the company paid Oscar to make a banquet for
400 mostly famous people into a literal circus, with trapezes overhead. Early
in his career Oscar had published a book of recipes he'd collected from New
York's best chefs, with the result that people thought he was a chef himself;
he continued collecting recipes and encouraging chefs to invent new ones, and
his “war cake” recipe appears on page 173, but most of the recipes he collected
were for enormous amounts of food—and one of his favorite finds, he says, came
from a prison chef and could have been officially named “Clam Chowder a la Sing
Sing.”
By the 1940s, when friends urged Oscar to write this book, it
appears that he had become a somewhat nostalgic and querulous old man, always
missing and reminiscing about an era that had passed. In the early twentieth
century conservation laws forced him to stop offering endangered wild animals
as main courses. Then the World Wars forced him to curb the extravagance and
comply with “shortages” and “austerities.” Prohibition forced him to ruin, in
his own mind, his terrapin soup by making it alcohol-free. The Depression took
all the fun out of being extravagant, and eventually his beloved hotel closed
down. It reopened on schedule, but it just...wasn't...the same.
Not that he was bitter. Having invested his whole life in the
hotel had its benefits. At seventy-five, Oscar could probably have retired in
any place and style he might have fancied...and he chose to move into the “new”
Waldorf-Astoria hotel, where he was allowed to work part-time as a greeter for
as long as he wanted. (His wife, whom he doesn't embarrass by mentioning more
than three times in the book, moved in with him.) That the children and
grandchildren of the “old” Waldorf's early patrons kept coming back, among
other things to see the institution Oscar had become, gives his memoir a happy
ending.
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